This will be one of my last posts about our Korea trip. The main reason why there were so many, apart from the fact that we spent nine glorious alcohol & foods sampling days, is that Korea is REALLY a great place to visit. Anyways, we were in Dongdaemun shopping district and were experiencing a beer emergency. Sad to say there were no real pubs in the area, only drinking restaurants and shady karaokes. So we decided to check out Western Bar, where the name itself almost spells doom for any serious drinker looking for an interesting place to drink. We were slightly surprised. For here, besides the ‘western’ and American (surprise surprise) themed decor, is a full beer buffet counter, the first I have ever seen, I must admit.

Beer smorgasbord anyone?

Now here’s how it works:

1. Sit at this counter
2. Pick up random bottle opener nearest to you on countertop
3. Pick out the beer in icebath the that delights you most at the moment
4. Crack it open. Drink & enjoy
5. Repeat as necessary
6. Pay up after waiter counts # of bottles opened
7. Stand up, take a longing and lingering look at icebath again while body is half turned toward exit
8. Decide that you need one for the road
9. See Step 1

Beer smorgasbord closeup. An international selection

Here’s a continuation of our observations of drinking in Korea. So the question is: Where can I get a drink? And the answer is: Everywhere. Remember, this is Korea. So I’ll list down a couple of places we did drink at and what we consumed.

Soju being measured out in a shotglass before pouring into the beer

Restaurants: Have a meal with your drink – its the accepted way. At the Fish & Grill chain, we ate pork stews and hotpots. Not sure if we saw any fish on the menu – we also don’t read Korean. Yet. We drank Korean beer Max and poured soju in, for a mixed drink effect. Many people do it – judging from the paired bottles of beer and soju seen on most tables.

Dongdongju

At Insadong, the street where tourist can experience lots of traditional craft and food, we had lunch at a traditional restaurant. There, apart from having one of the best meals in Korea, we had our first taste of dongdongju, a traditional (that’s the 3rd time I used this word in this paragraph) alcoholic beverage. It looks a lot like milk but taste nothing like it. Served from an earthen jar via a scoop, dongdongju is strangely easy to drink and addictive. It almosts tastes fizzy on your tongue and has a slightly sweet and tart flavour.

Sidewalk fare: Now here’s an intersting concept that can be found all over Korea – Chicken & Beer shops. Usually fried, these small restaurants or sometimes hole-in-the-wall outlets (not unlike fish n chips shops) serve up freshly fried chicken and you get to order beer cheaply to accompany the artery-cloggin fare.

The chicken

Good for a late night take out if you don’t want to splurge on room service. I will confirm that the chicken is delicious. BTW, beer is also somtimes referred to as ‘hof’.

Chicken from a different Chicken & Hof outlet. As good as it looks.

My Korean friend Jerry explained that its a variation of the word ‘hops’.

A typical Chicken & Beer outlet

I would also consider the plethora of convenience stores in Seoul goodplaces to get a drink fix. They carry all the Korean beer selections like Hite, Max, Cass and OB (all taste like clean lager, similar un-full bodied) as well as the more common international selection of RTD (ready-to-drink) beverages. And of course soju in all flavours and packaging, for your convenience.

Selection of Korean beers

Small international selection.

Cups of plain ice sold. So you can pour in your own beverage of choice. Smart. You don't have to steal ice and cups from the Slurpee machine anymore.

Tentbars: These are literally tents set up on small sideroads and pavements during the colder months for the sole purpose of bringing late night nourishment and refreshment after a long nite of shopping or afterhours drinks. The tents stave off the cold, biting wind while hot food is prepared on the back of a van which also serves as one of the sides of the structure. Makeshift tables and stools complete the outfit. Not unlike a mini frontline mess hall during army training.

Tent bar operators preparing food. Notice the paper cups on the table - what do you suppose it contains? Hint: its not tea.

Next post: I’ll really talk about Jeju (micro)Brewery next post. And more interesting drinking places and practices in Korea.

Recently Andre and I were in Korea – what an eye opener. Drinking is a strong part of their culture, make no mistake. Walk around the city and you can see folks enjoying a tipple, usually soju and beer, accompanied by a steaming pot of kimchi chigae (stew) or other traditional cuisine.

Soju with food (fried chicken gizzzard) in a tent bar

Unlike in Singapore or many other countries, food is almost always mandatory at a drinking hole, restaurant or even in the mini mart. No Korean drinks without a couple of dishes alongside, even if its just fruits (really). At many establishments, its only us that purely order drinks and then looking around amazed at other patrons wolfing down ‘drinking snacks’ like kimchi/seafood pancakes, stewed pork slices with pickles etc at ALL times of the day.

Soju selection at a Familymart convenience store

So back to soju. You can find soju EVERYWHERE, from minimarts to restaurants to pubs. And they come in a variety of packaging. 250ml bottles, 1.5L PET bottles and even tetrabrik packs.

Soju in tetrabrick packs. Amazing.

And mixing soju into beer, what’s called pock tan ju, is a norm.

More soju, anyone?

They also have their submarines or ‘bombs’ as the Koreans call it.

Ladies also have gatherings over soju and beer, just like any bloke outing.  So it was a welcome sight to see an equal number of tables consisting all women diners as there were all male groups. Of course there were mixed groups as well.

One of the more ‘lady’ drinks is Kwai jul – consisting fruit juice (could be apple, orange, peach or watermelon I think) and alcohol. It was tasty enough but not sure if it was laced with soju or other alcohol.

Alcohol laced fresh fruit juice. Refreshing.

Soju is also brewed with pride regionally in Korea, like the specialty ones using volcanic spring water from Mount Hala (Halasan) in Jeju Island.

Having spoken so much abt soju, how does it actually taste? I would describe the taste as a more mellow vodka-like flavour (distinctly grain based) albeit less strong (20% abv) version – with a bit of sake character. But I’ve never seen soju drunk warm, unlike sake.  I thought the Jeju Halasan ones tasted more refreshing and sweeter than the normal Jinro nationally brewed ones.

Soju brewed from volcanic Mt Hala spring water

In the next few posts  I’ll talk about another indigeneous Korean alcoholic beverage called dongdongju, Korean beer, drinking venues as well as  some drinking etiquette in Korea. There’ll also be videos of some spectacular bartenders we were lucky enough to meet. You’ll see what I mean.